Second-hand buying: questions to help.

This is not the definitive list but should help avoid the major pitfalls of buying a home made or Real Life Toys example. It is impossible to compare the items seen for sale privately with the factory output without careful investigation, preferably in person; pictures can lie.

The main differences are the:

• Quality of build
• Material used
• Content of completed model [ours include almost everything on the price list]
• Motor type
• Drive systems*: Direct drive, Soft Start Eon /off over four seconds] Speed Control Battery type
• Completeness
• Standard of build fit and finish
• Description honesty

We have helped buyers of some of these items with new bodies to the correct dimensions and strength and supplied parts to complete to a safe and lasting standard. This file whilst not all encompassing, is a second hand buyer's guide and check list to help avoid some of the main pitfalls of a poorly constructed item being passed off as one of our products.

Fairly often one of the models offered will meet the standard and the price will reflect the quality of this build. We recently sold a 14 month old TLI and Trailer with less than ten hours use for £2500; it was the bargain of the year.

Q: Specific check list for visit:

1. Motor and motor area: fixings, ability to adjust chain, condition of wires, condition of chain & sprockets?
2. Bodywork: Battered, broken, missing parts, hinges pulling out, excess holes? Blown MDF through poor sealing and storage?
3. Battery and battery area: acid spills / damage, Held safely in place, cleanliness of battery terminals/top?
4. Underside: particularly steering and axles this should be easy to turn not sloppy or stiff and Brakes: specifically has it got any?
5. Quality of components: Rusty/ usable; Bought or home made?
6. Welding standard: Pigeon poo or proper weld penetration, any welded repairs?
7. Slop in axle joints, wheel bearings, braking system, quality of welds?
8. Dash and wiring: Rats nest or operating theatre, ancillaries working?
9. Tyres: useable?
10. Paintwork and cosmetics: Tarted up?
    Look beyond the surface as painting will be a relatively easy fix.
11. Function: does it run, steer, stop? Is the battery splashing acid everywhere?

A series of questions to help you decide how much to pay for the item described:

Q: Which model is it?

The Geepstar is often incorrectly described as a toy Landrover. See the range to help identify.

Q; How old is the vehicle?

Often if a Real Life Toys motor [EMD] has been used then the age can be assessed on type to within 5 years but with the details from the motor plate the model can often be dated to month and year.

Q: Where has it been kept?

Under a tree, tarpaulin or open outhouse is not going to do the bodywork much good and even less to the electrics.

Q: What is the body made of?

Standard plain MDF: this is likely to be poor [look for swollen areas where the MDF has blown] can be good if well looked after and dry stored. We have one made in standard plain MDP in our keeping which is still in good condition after twenty years.
Moisture resistant MDF or Ply is much better but still needs dry storage.
Battening: Look to see what type of batten has been used? battening made from plywood is useless.

Is the seat screwed down [correct] or glued down [Impossible to do maintenance or replace on a standard motor fitment)
Are the rear wings screwed down [correct]? It is nearly impossible to carry out chain adjustment if wings are glued in place.

Q: What type of motor has been used?

Q: What details are on the description plate attached to the motor [it may need the use of a mirror]?

An EMD and GB1 or GB4 gearbox are original equipment. Early Mayfair and jeeps were powered by old windscreen wiper motors but anything more than a toddler using the vehicle would pop the motor so RLT Ltd had a motor designed specifically for their models which did not need the gearing set up.
If an unknown motor has been used ask about its ability, preferably test.

Q; How well does it pull away? Smoothly and not needing a push?

Check the ability of any mobility scooter motor installation. One car was sold with the wheels put straight onto the ends of the mobility scooter shafts. Taking off 10" or 12" wheels and fitting 15" or 16" wheels increases the speed and reduces the torque and this particular car whilst it looked great and fetched a high price has not turned a wheel for the last four years because it goes too fast and will not pull away with even just one child on board. Ninety nine percent of these motors need to be geared down. Advice is freely available. See also www.toylanderownersclub.com

Q: What is the top speed?

Walking pace is approximately 4 MPH. Used in a public place the law states top speed 6KPH. Petrol power in Public operated by a minor is illegal and dangerous. Public liability insurance is required and advisable when using the vehicle in a public place. [Anywhere the pubic has access to].

Q: Battery:

Car battery: Poor choice and least useful; Price accordingly Potential acid spillage as battery is bounced about whilst running. Often old batteries off the family car are used. Only OK for the Direct Drive setup. The electronic systems in use require all cells to be fully functioning and a full charge capability to work properly. Caravan Battery: 85 Amp hr. Better but very heavy [approx 20 kilos each] Must have overflow pipe if acid can overflow and it will because of the bouncing received during use.

GEL or AGM batteries: 33 to 35 Amp hr. Most expensive but far safer, lighter in weight for same ability and no overflow. Must be charged with a suitable charger. See FAQ's on web site.

Condition:

Non running: Price for the worst case scenario as if only a small amount of effort would reap a much higher price why is it not done?
Part finished: Ditto, If it is not finished you cannot test it. Ideal if you want to dump your problems on someone else.
Just needs a tidy up: See Non running above Super toy for the DIY Dad: Ditto

Description:

When is a Toylander not a Toylander? When someone is trying to get your attention. Check out the model range on the web site to be able to recognise what is and what is not an RLT ltd product.
*Identifying Real Life Toys Ltd drive systems:
Direct drive: Heavy duty button under throttle. Preferably with forward and reverse options. Lock out button to save damage. Heavy grade wire.
Step Start: [on /off over four seconds] Identified by open Printed Circuit board [PCB] Jack plug connection to board, on / off switch, FIR switch, long silver bodied throttle button. Heat sink mounted standing off the body with spacers.
Speed Control: Large silver coloured box with four heavy duty wires, red, black blue and yellow. Connection by Din plug, key on / off switch, F/R switch. Smooth throttle response.

Production history:

Please bear in mind these cars can be up to 22 years old in the case of the Mayfair, 21 years old for the Geepstar, 9 years old for the Toylander Two, 6 years old for the Toylander One and 5 years old for the DBR Tractor. As @ 2009

The Jeep, Geep or Geepstar model was introduced in 1988, still in production. Wheel size 15" dia. Distinctive features: four slots in front panel and wheels outside body side, flat bonnet. Estimated production 3000 plus Worldwide.

The Mayfair, introduced in 1987: wheel dia 12". Still in production. Estimated production same as Geepstar.

Scout 1991, 12" plastic or spoked wheels single motor. Estimated production under 200.

Toylander 2 introduced 2000: still in production, wheel dia 15". Single or double motor, 4 MPH

Toylander 1 introduced 2003: still in production, wheel dia 16". Single or double motor, 4 MPH